Happy Mothers Day! What better way to celebrate mom than by planning a trip together? For my mom’s birthday last July, she and I rendezvoused in the Pacific Northwest for a beautiful week in Portland, Oregon. The city would also make a great option for a girl’s trip, couple’s trip, or solo adventure, and has activities for all kinds of travelers.
In the city
POWELL’S City of Books
Located in Portland’s Pearl District, Powell’s claim to fame is as the world’s largest independent bookstore with a remarkable 68,000 square feet (1.6 acres) of retail floor across nine color-coded rooms (plus a coffee shop) where you can peruse more than 1 million books. It was once an automobile dealership and still has some of the signage to prove it. The scale and collection are incredible, however there are no squishy armchairs to curl up in so it may not work for a full afternoon. Parking in this area of Portland was really challenging for us, I recommend planning to park in one of the nearby garages.
- Hours: 10a-9p daily
The International Rose Test Garden
You don’t need to be in Portland very long to realize why it’s called the City of Roses. They are blooming on nearly every sidewalk, in every shade. If you like those, you’ll love this. Tucked inside Washington Park, Portland’s 410-acre urban park, is the International Rose Test Garden. The garden, established in 1917, is a spectacle even for the most casual of floral enthusiasts and summer is the perfect time to go, though you can expect beautiful blooms between late May and October. There are over 10,000 rose plants representing 610 varieties. The park also offer great views of the city. Along with its neighbor, the Hoyt Arboretum, the International Rose Test Garden is free to access. You’ll just need to pay for parking. This was a highlight for my mom and a lovely way to pass an afternoon. (The Japanese Garden is just across from the Rose Test Garden but does have an admission fee).
- Hours: 5a-10p daily
Cathedral Park
Cathedral Park is another sprawling public space and great free activity in Portland. In the span of a couple hours, we saw a doggy obedience class, picnics, a river swimming competition (?), and a proposal. Fans of Portlandia might recognize it as the site of Spyke and Irys’s rehearsal unification ceremony in season 2 of Portlandia. There’s also a free jazz festival held there every summer. The park’s famous arches are formed by the base of the St. John’s bridge. I recommend stopping at Cathedral Coffee on your way and grab a spot on the lawn for some high-quality people-watching.
Day trips from Portland
The city of Portland is beautiful in its own right but it also serves as a great home base from which to explore other Oregon treasures.
30 Min East: Hikes and Waterfalls in the Columbia River Gorge
The Colombia River Gorge is a massive canyon 80 miles in length and constitutes America’s largest National Scenic Area. It is home to some of Oregon’s spectacular Waterfall Corridor as well as beautiful hikes and viewpoints. The most famous and most popular of these waterfalls is Multnomah Falls. You can hike to Multnomah Falls but the easiest access point is from Exit 31 on Interstate 84. However, (for 2023) between May 26 and September 4 you will need to book a timed pass through Recreation.gov. The passes are available to reserve starting May 12, 2023.
You no longer need a pass to access the Waterfall Corridor, a.k.a. US-30, a scenic road that runs parallel to and above I-84. From the Waterfall Corridor, you can access a number of trails including Bridal Veil Falls and Fairy Falls. Check out this post from PNW-based blogger Pines and Vines on 10 hikes near Multnomah Falls.
1 Hr east: Lavender farms and Wineries in Oregon’s Fruit Loop
If you drive still further east along I-84, you’ll come to Hood River, an aptly named town cradled between the Columbia River to the north and Mount Hood to the south. Take Exit 64 to get on OR-35 South. Together with Dee Highway (OR-281), this road forms Oregon’s Fruit Loop, a 35-mile trail through the verdant Hood River Valley spotted with farm stands, wineries, and u-pick farms.
We stopped at Hood River Lavender Farms, which is next door to Stave and Stone Winery and offers incredible views of Mt. Hood. You can visit the farm and winery beginning in April but the lavender starts blooming in mid-June. U-pick is $10 for as many stems as you can fit in one zip tie (which is a lot!) and they provide scissors. Absolutely get the frozen lavender lemonade. This was a highlight for me and one of the reasons I chose July to visit.
On your way back to Portland, stop in Hood River for dinner at Stonehedge Gardens for a nice dinner. This converted farmhouse and sprawling grounds feels like a fairy forest and is frequently used for events and weddings. The focaccia bread is unreal and vibes are immaculate.
1.5 HR NorthWest: Cannon Beach and Ecola state park
I haven’t seen anything in the U.S. quite like the wildness of the Pacific Northwest. Cannon Beach is farther afield than the first two options but worth the trip if you’re able. From the public access beach, you can see the famous Haystack Rock, which from April to early July is home to nesting tufted puffins. Depending on the weather, this beach can get a little crowded and parking is pretty limited. For less crowds and even more beautiful views, drive to the edge of town and pay $5 to access Ecola State Park. There’s an abundance of parking, picnic tables, and public restrooms, with access to several trails and a stretch of pebbly beach. Dogs are welcome but have to be on a leash.
If you are up for a hike through the woods with the potential for some slippery/muddy spots, consider hiking down to generally empty Crescent Beach (seen in the second photo above). The trail is 3.6 miles out and back. We made it about halfway down the trail and ended up turning back as it was taking longer than expected and we were getting hungry for lunch. I recommend downloading the trail map on AllTrails before you get there because there may not be any cell signal.
For food, bring a picnic or the town of Cannon Beach has lots of little restaurants and cafes though you may encounter a wait. Try Sea Level Bakery, which is currently operating as a pop-up at Public Coast Brewing, a good spot for lunch.
Where to Eat
Like its neighbor to the north, coffee culture is serious here; Portland has a wealth of great coffee shops and small roasters, I’m highlighting just a few. As a note – most areas have street parking available in nearby neighborhoods. That said, parking in downtown Portland can be a bit of a nightmare, preparing and planning to pay for garage parking will save you a lot of time and stress.
Coffee Shops
- Stumptown Coffee – This is the quintessential PDX coffee shop with a stylish minimalist vibe, I got some of their Hairbender espresso roast to take home.
- Case Study Coffee – A direct trade roaster, theirs was my favorite of the coffee I tried in Portand. There are five locations scattered around the city. It would also make a good study spot if you needed to get some work done.
- Cathedral Coffee – A little off the beaten path but cozy and definitely worth a stop if you go to Cathedral Park.
- Good Coffee – another roaster with several locations, and a brand you might recognize. These shops felt a little more corporate but, as the name says, good coffee, and yummy pastries.
- Portland Cà Phê – Started out of the pandemic, Portland’s first Vietnamese specialty coffee shop serves up classics like Vietnamese iced coffee and matcha lattes with an optional twist – house-made syrups in flavors like ube and rose. They also serve bahn mi from owner Kimberly Dam’s family’s restaurant, House of Bahn Mi.
Lunch and Brunch
- ¿Por Qué No?– Ok, this place might have a line but it’s worth the wait. Super funky decor, amazing tacos and A+ margaritas. There are two locations, we went to the one in Southeast on Hawthorne.
- Grand Central Bakery – This bakery actually started in Seattle but now has a strong presence in Portland, including one location also on Hawthorne. We came for breakfast sandwiches one morning but kept coming back for fresh bread and bakery treats. So good, and they do a lot with local non-profits and sustainability. If you’re wanting a super local bakery, check out Tabor Bread on Belmont.
Dinner and cocktails
- Tusk – Stylish space with a locally sourced, Mediterranean-Middle Eastern menu, Tusk was the perfect spot for a low-key birthday dinner. Located in Southeast Portland on the cute Burnside Street. Note that they are only open for dinner service and are a no-cash establishment.
Sweet Treats
- Salt and Straw – This place is a West Coast favorite for a reason. Founded in 2011 by cousins Kim and Tyler, Salt and Straw is known for their inventive flavors like Strawberry Honey Balsamic with Black Pepper and Salted, Malted Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough. There are three locations in Portland.
- Blue Star Donuts – It’s a potentially controversial opinion but I’ve had Voodoo Doughnuts, and I think Blue Star is better. For DC residents, the analog would be Baked & Wired and Georgetown Cupcakes, one has great treats and the other has a line of tourists around the corner… Both places have vegan options and I think Blue Star’s flavors are more interesting and subtle.
Weather
July was beautiful in Portland, such a welcome relief from the heat and humidity of East Coast summers. Portland has experienced some heat waves in recent years, so check that your stay has air conditioning.
