Ireland’s capital city has a reputation for craic (pronounced crack), a Gaelic word connoting a good time and good conversation with friends. My first impression was of a vibrant and future-minded city, at the time decked out in rainbow in honor of Pride.

Home to several universities and European headquarters for companies like Facebook and LinkedIn, the city has a young, creative energy. There are tons of green spaces and vibe-y food and drink spots to check out. This is balanced with being a centuries-old city steeped in history. The River Liffey divides Dublin into north and south. Below is our itinerary for two days in the southside of Dublin.

Day 1

Breakfast in Temple Bar District

This neighborhood (actually not named after the famous pub) is a good home base for walking to Dublin’s key spots. We grabbed breakfast at Elephant & Castle, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year and serves breakfast or brunch, lunch, and dinner every day of the week. The menu is pretty classic, I got the Brioche french toast with berries and hubby got the avocado toast. We grabbed a booth by the window, which was prime for people-watching.

Tip: If you want a photo at Temple Bar (the pub) without the usual crowds, go early before breakfast and it will be just you.

Visit the Guinness Storehouse

When in Dublin, do as the Dubliners do 😉 You have to get a pint of Guinness when you’re in the Fair City and you might as well go to the source. From Temple Bar, it is about a 25 minute walk to the Guinness Storehouse, which offers a good orientation to the city. This is one of those spots that attracts a lot of tourists but is still worth going. Guinness was brewed on site until 1988, now the Storehouse functions mainly as a multi-story museum and interactive experience. The good thing is that this is fun even for someone who doesn’t necessarily love beer (me!).

Each floor walks you through the ingredients and unique process of making Guinness and the history of founder Arthur Guinness, which is entwined with the history of Dublin. The tour is self-guided, with certain experiences led by a team member. There is a guided tasting experience where you get an adorable miniature Guinness. Then you are taught ‘the perfect pour’ and pour your own pint of the black stuff, which you can take to the top floor Gravity Bar. This bar was my favorite part, it has a 360 degree view of the city. Sláinte!

We went around 10:30 on a Wednesday morning and there was zero line but I understand that it can get very busy. If you’re going on a weekend, I recommend buying an advance ticket which allows you to skip the queue. We spent about 1.5 hours, it would probably have taken longer if there were bigger crowds.

Tip: If you are a beer lover, or want a more unique experience, visit Guinness’ Open Gate Brewery, a five minute walk from the Storehouse. You can try a flight of experimental brews and chat with beer specialists Thursday-Saturday.

Castles and Cathedrals

There is no shortage of history in Dublin, in fact there are more centuries-old monuments than can be appreciated in a weekend. A few favorites of mine were Christchurch Cathedral, Dublin Castle, and St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The latter two have a cost associated with viewing the interiors but walking outside is lovely as well. St. Patrick’s Cathedral is adjacent to St. Patrick’s Park, a lovely green space with a playground and a small cafe.

Dublin Castle is home to the Dubh Linn Garden, which has several paths circling a wide grassy area carved with a Celtic pattern.

Tip: You will definitely get your steps in while walking Dublin. Drink plenty of water and build in time for a nap to recharge.

Dinner at The Pig’s Ear

Dublin has a great food scene and there are quite a few highly-rated restaurants, especially along Dawson Street. However, some of them feel a little stiff with large dining rooms, white tablecloths, and gratuitous chrome or gold. In contrast, The Pig’s Ear is a cozy restaurant with a small second-floor dining room with large windows overlooking Nassau Street. The food is excellent, worthy of its inclusion in the 2019 Michelin Guide but not overwrought. We were able to get a same-day reservation and enjoyed two courses. I also really enjoyed their hot pink door.

Drinks at The Little Pig

Are we sensing a theme? There are a handful of speakeasies in Dublin but this is the only one with Patrick, a charming curmudgeon of a bartender. He was generous in sharing his suggestions and cocktail secrets, including using an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner to emulsify house-made coffee liqueur.

As all speakeasies should, The Little Pig requires that you know how to find it. Your first step is making a reservation online. Once confirmed, you’ll receive directions to a nondescript door and a phone number. At the agreed upon time, call the number and give a password in exchange for a keycode to open the door. From there an alley will lead to a stair case and another door where you’ll be asked to repeat the password. Honestly, just finding the bar was fun. If you see this little guy, you’re in the right place.

Inside is dark and decadent, the walls are covered in deep red velvet and water is served from glass skulls. I ordered Back to Black, a gin cocktail made with elderflower and charcoal. If you’re still hungry, they have a full menu as well.

Other spots to eat and drink:

• Porterhouse Central Bar – microbrewery with a cool vibe and good cocktails, right across from Trinity College on Nassau Street.
• V.C.C. – maybe the most well known of the Dublin speakeasies, Vintage Cocktail Club is in the Temple Bar area and has three floors and a rooftop terrace. No password, just find the door and ring the bell.

Day 2

Trinity College and the Long Room of the Old Library

The Long Room is stunning, nearly 65 meters in length with curved, wood paneled ceilings and over 200,000 books. There are busts of famous orators, writers, and politicians (though no women) along the rows of shelves, including Cicero who is credited with saying “A room without books is like a body without a soul.” By that measure, this room is divine.

I recommend going first thing in the morning, it opens at 8:30 AM, because it can get crowded and if going on a weekend it may be best to book online in advance. Tickets are 14 euro for adults, 12 for students and admission includes the Book of Kells exhibition , an intricately illuminated manuscript of the four Gospels, considered one of Ireland’s greatest cultural treasures.

Trinity College is worth a visit in its own right. As you walk through the Front Gate you see the Campanile, a beautiful bell tower perfectly framed by the archway. There is apparently a superstition that if a student has the misfortune of walking under the bell tower when the bells toll, they are sure to fail their exams.

Brunch at Sophie’s

In the lobby of The Dean hotel is a custom neon sign that reads “I fell in love here,” which accurately describes my experience. This place is #aestheticdreams. The Dean is a boutique hotel in the center of Dublin on Harcourt Street, which is known for posh bars (like Odeon) and hen parties.

For a more low-key experience, come for breakfast or brunch. On the top floor of The Dean is Sophie’s, a stylish bar and restaurant that has incredible 360 views of the city and the only great bagel I had in Ireland. There is also a rooftop terrace but it was closed for renovations.

For a similar vibe, check out Elle’s Bar and Bistro at the Iveagh Garden Hotel

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St. Stephen’s Green

After breakfast, take some time to enjoy one of Dublin’s many parks. From The Dean, Iveagh Garden is about a one minute walk and St. Stephen’s Green is about four minutes. We opted for the latter and the larger of the two. St. Stephen’s Green was created in 1663 and became open to the public in 1880. At the center of the park is a fountain with paths spreading out from it like spokes. There is a large pond populated with ducks and swans and even on a weekday, the park was full of Dubliners young and old.

Shopping on Grafton Street

If you walk out of St. Stephen’s Park through Fusilier’s Arch you will find yourself facing Grafton Street, Dublin’s main shopping district. It is mostly closed off to cars and perfect for window shopping. There are several fresh flower vendors and street musicians, in addition to the restaurants and shops. Just off of Grafton Street is Duke Street, which is home to Ulysses Rare Books, named after the famed Irish novel. The family-owned bookstore focuses on rare editions of 20th century Irish literature.

Drive to Howth Head

It seems poor manners to say the best thing you can do in Dublin is get out of Dublin, but hiking the summit of Howth Head was our favorite part of an incredible trip and shouldn’t be missed if you can help it. About a 30 minute drive northeast of Dublin, Howth is a small seaside village on a rocky peninsula. Driving past the village and up up up (you can put Howth Cliff Walk Car Park into your mapping app, turn right at the Summit Inn) will deliver you to a trailhead and this gorgeous view of the Irish Sea and Bailey Lighthouse.

There is a trail but some of it includes rough steps or is overgrown so I recommend jeans and boots, or at the very least closed-toed shoes. After taking in the beauty of Howth, head back to Dublin for dinner.

Tip: For another quick trip outside of Dublin, check out the quaint coastal town of Malahide, home to Malahide Castle and Gardens. You can drive or take the DART for less than 4 euro.

Dinner at Boxty House

A boxty is an Irish potato pancake, closer to an American pancake than latkes in texture. At Boxty House (right next door to Elephant and Castle in Temple Bar) you can get this traditional treat incorporated into all sorts of dishes.

They also have a wide selection of G&T’s and local beers. Hubby asked about the difference between two stouts and the next thing we knew, the waiter had brought four samples and was explaining where each comes from.

Drinks in the Dame District

Temple Bar is the most well-known bar scene in Dublin but is also a little touristy with prices to match (think Bourbon Street). We were advised to head a few blocks over to the bars on Dame Lane. Still good craic but possibly less crowded. We grabbed a Guinness (a Magner’s for me) at Dame Tavern and listened to live music. Other good bars in the area include The Globe, Trinity Bar, and 4 Dame Lane.